Types of Leather Grain

If you were thinking, “What leather was used to make my handbag and shoes?”  I am sorry but I obviously can’t answer that question.  In addition to not being invited into your closet, I also don’t have the time to review all of your shoes…  I am not trying to be rude, but you have “way too many handbags & shoes”.   If you are interested in self-educating yourself about leather grains you are welcome to read the following.

Although more categories of leather exist, leather is generally sold in the follow four primary grains (again, more do exist, but this is a good start for your research):

Full-grain leather refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected grain leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide.  The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and durability. The grain also has breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it develops a patina during its expected useful lifetime. High quality leather footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline, semi-aniline.

Top-grain leather (the most common type in high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. It has had the "split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain.  Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added, which produces a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it does not develop a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater stain resistance than full-grain leather if the finish remains unbroken.

Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or sanded off, and an artificial grain embossed into the surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented. (Note: this is not an artificial leather.  This is still leather from an animal, but the grain is artificial.)

Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the top-grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split.  In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not considered a true suede.

Here is a little more information about bycast leather (which is mentioned in the “Split” leather section above). Bicast leather (also known as bi-cast leather, bycast leather, or PU leather, sometimes described as split leather) is a material made with a split leather backing covered with a layer of polyurethane (hence the term "PU leather") that is applied to the surface and then embossed. Polyurethane PU is an abbreviation in English, commonly known as the main component of polyurethane.  PU leather with polyurethane component of the skin that, it has a light weight, toughness, waterproof, water swelling deformation is not easy, environmentally friendly, wear-resistant, easy care, with a certain air permeability characteristics.

You may also want to learn about Kip leather which is soft and luxurious.  You should also research the option of using fake leather if synthetic is your preference.

Learn about leather manufacturers and fake leather manufacturers in the Apparel Search factory directory.

Learn more about leather from the leather definition.

Above is good information to learn if you are a fashion designer that plans to work with leather clothing manufacturers.  It is important to know as much detail about leather as possible before having discussions with a supplier.  Above is only a small portion of the information that is important to learn about leathers.

You may also have interest in learning How To Identify Genuine Leather, PU Leather and PVC Leather? (article on Ebay)

Thank you for taking the time to read our fashion industry blog post. We hope that you have found this information about leather grain to be helpful. If you have comments or questions, please add your thoughts in the discussion area below.  Hopefully this post helps you the next time you purchase a pair of shoes or a luxury handbag.