If you were
thinking, “What leather was used to make my handbag and shoes?” I am sorry but
I obviously can’t answer that question. In addition to not being invited into
your closet, I also don’t have the time to review all of your shoes… I am not
trying to be rude, but you have “way too many handbags & shoes”. If you
are interested in self-educating yourself about leather grains you are welcome
to read the following.
Although more
categories of leather exist, leather is generally sold in the follow four
primary grains (again, more do exist, but this is a good start for your
research):
Full-grain leather refers to hides that have
not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to
top-grain or corrected grain leather) to remove imperfections (or natural marks)
on the surface of the hide. The grain remains allowing the fiber strength and
durability. The grain also has breathability,
resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it
develops a patina during its expected useful lifetime. High quality
leather footwear are often made from full-grain leather. Full-grain leathers are
typically available in two finish types: aniline,
semi-aniline.
Top-grain leather (the most common type in
high-end leather products) is the second-highest quality. It has had the
"split" layer separated away, making it thinner and more pliable than
full-grain. Its surface has been sanded and a finish coat added, which
produces a colder, plastic feel with less breathability, and it does not develop
a natural patina. It is typically less expensive and has greater stain
resistance than full-grain leather if the finish remains
unbroken.
Corrected-grain leather is any leather that
has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to
create corrected leather do not meet the standards for use in creating
vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected or
sanded off, and an artificial grain embossed into the
surface and dressed with stain or dyes. Most corrected-grain
leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the
corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as
two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented. (Note: this is not an
artificial leather. This is still leather from an animal, but the grain is
artificial.)
Split leather is leather created from
the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been
separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the top-grain and
drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness
allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the
middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents
further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the
surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (bycast leather).
Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are
usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from
the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy"
on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from
full-grain. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into
the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is
not considered a true suede.
Here is a little more information
about bycast leather (which is mentioned in the “Split” leather section
above). Bicast leather (also known as bi-cast leather, bycast leather, or PU
leather, sometimes described as split leather) is a material made with a split
leather backing covered with a layer of polyurethane (hence the term "PU
leather") that is applied to the surface and then embossed. Polyurethane PU is
an abbreviation in English, commonly known as the main component of
polyurethane. PU leather with polyurethane component of the skin that,
it has a light weight, toughness, waterproof, water swelling deformation is not
easy, environmentally friendly, wear-resistant, easy care, with a certain air
permeability characteristics.
You may also want to learn about Kip leather which is soft and luxurious. You should
also research the option of using fake leather if synthetic is your
preference.
Above is good information to learn if
you are a fashion designer that plans to work with leather clothing
manufacturers. It is important to know as much detail about leather as
possible before having discussions with a supplier. Above is only a small
portion of the information that is important to learn about
leathers.
Thank you for taking the time to read our fashion industry blog post. We hope that you have found this information about leather grain to be helpful. If you have comments or questions, please add your thoughts in the discussion area below. Hopefully this post helps you the next time you purchase a pair of shoes or a luxury handbag.