What is an emerging
designer?
An emerging designer is a newly formed or just coming into prominence designer; emergent.
In regard to the apparel industry, it refers to a new clothing, footwear, or
fashion accessory designer that is fresh on the scene but gaining in popularity
for one reason or another. Some of them will become successful and others will
fall away into obscurity as many have done before them.
Who are the new
emerging fashion designers that we should keep an eye on during 2015?
And why are they being picked to rise in popularity? Well, in order to best
answer these questions, we should turn to the pros. Refinery 29 and Paste
Magazine have put together rather nice lists of emerging designer picks along
with the reasons that they believe these designers deserve special recognition
as up and comers. Due to that fact that we are fans of both publications, we
thought it would be nice to share with you their wisdom. After reading their
opinions below, you should also visit their website to see the other amazing
fashion articles that they have written on the subject of fashion.
Here are eight
emerging designer picks highlighted by Refinery 29.
The 8 New
Designers We're Betting On In 2015 written by Connie
Wang. Connie's article also includes excellent fashion photos for each of the designers. You should check her original post at Refinery 29.
Babyghost: Though the brand was founded
in 2010, Babyghost truly hit its stride this past year, after enlisting Chinese
models Ju Xiaowen and Ming Xi to rep the brand. A mix of goth-glam streetwear, cozy knits, and riot grrrl
sensibilities, Babyghost is redefining NYC's new "cool-girl"
aesthetic.
5:31 Jérôme: Unlike the 3.1 in
Phillip Lim's brand's name, the 5 and 31 here refer to the date that Jérôme
LaMaar was born. A fifth generation New Yorker, Jérôme knows exactly how to walk
that fine line between class and crass; his collection has all the raw sex
appeal of Versace with the sophistication of Altuzarra. In particular, the
spring '15 collection has an updated American Hustle vibe that makes us dream of
disco (Apparel Search added this link to our Disco fashion page; it was not in Connie's original article).
Daniel Silverstein: Daniel
Silverstein's clothes feel good to wear, but don't call them "easy." Made for
the person who wouldn't own anything she merely feels lukewarm about, each piece
stands out. The collection features strong, geometric shapes meant to be layered
and mismatched. Silverstein's clothes are for creatives. Case in point: Lady
Gaga is already a fan.
Kim Haller:
After spending 20 years creating knits for such heavy hitters as Calvin Klein,
Derek Lam, and Jason Wu, Kim Haller is finally using her talents for her own
eponymous line. What Haller can sculpt with yarn, most people couldn't do with
putty. Her collection of sweaters, dresses, skirts, and one-pieces are the
coziest works of art you'll ever own.
Miuniku: Sisters
Tina and Nikita Satradhar have racked up accolades as the finalists and award
winners of a slew of prestigious design competitions. But, you don't need to
know what they've won to understand that their brand, Miuniku (a combination of
their nicknames), is special. Arrestingly graphic, slightly surreal, yet
practical, too, this is a collection that you'll soon find hanging next to
Christopher Kane.
OHLIN/D: After
just two collections, Anne Dearne's OHLIN/D has already built quite the
reputation for feminine knit sets guaranteed to get you noticed. Her skater
skirts are a blogger favorite, but we might be even more mesmerized by her
recent study in sheers, taupes, and iridescence. Nearly naked has never looked
so plainly perfect.
Self
Portrait: London-based Self
Portrait is giving body-con dresses and bustiers a run for their money by making
sweaters, smock dresses, and long-sleeved frocks super-sexy. Cut to hug every
curve, Self Portrait's designs give you a much more compelling alternative to
that "going-out top" for your next date night.
Sheena
Trivedi: Designer Sheena
Trivedi's eponymous label effortlessly straddles her two homes, combining the
color and exuberance of New Dehli with the sleek sophistication and precision of
New York. Her collections are filled with clothes that guarantee a good mood.
Bedecked with feathers, lightning bolts, and embroidery, they'll elicit a Happy
Outfit Dance every time.
Paste
Magazine had presented a
compelling list of designers back in March of 2014. They listed the following
designers to be ones with strong potential. The article was call “15
Emerging Fashion Designers to Know Now”.
Jonathan
Liang
Hailing from Kuala
Lumpur, Malaysia, designer Jonathan Liang launched his Paris-based eponymous
label in 2012. Since then, he’s expanded his presence across South East Asia,
Europe and now the United States with online retailer TheCools.com. Liang’s
designs display impeccable workmanship and Italian crafting while evoking pure
femininity and effortless luster.
Marissa
Webb
Given that her
first job was at Ralph Lauren and she later spent 10 years designing for J.Crew,
Marissa Webb is far from a new designer in the fashion scene. However, since
Webb just recently launched her eponymous line in 2013, we’ll say this veteran
is definitely a must-follow designer, especially with her prim-and-proper yet
casually chic collection of clothing.
Karolyn
Pho
With her unique
point of view and distinctly hard-to-miss branding, Karolyn started her career
in the fashion scene styling celebrities in her hometown of Los Angeles before
launching her eponymous line in 2012. Her Fall/Winter 2014 collection combined a
must-see effortlessness with sexy androgynous-chic aesthetics.
GEORGINE
Having only
graduated from Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design three years ago, Georgine
Ratelband launched her eponymous line with vibrant confidence, elegant
femininity and high-end fabrics. In February 2014, GEORGINE secured her place as
an emerging designer with her elegance-meets-androgyn debut NYFW Fall/Winter
2014 runway show.
Skingraft
Though February
2014 marked this Los Angeles-based label’s second time to present during NYFW,
from what we’ve seen, Skingraft’s edgy-cool vibes so far are only the beginning
of what might be in store for founding designer Jonny Cota.
Alder New
York
Founded in 2011 by
designers (and friends) David J. Krause and Nina Zilka, Alder New York combines
thoughtful, practical designs with function and humor. Made locally, this line
of menswear and natural apothecary goods by the talented duo maintains a witty
design aesthetic, and we can’t wait to see more of it in the future.
Audra Noyes evokes
French craftsmanship with American sportswear for her eponymous label, Audra.
Still within in its first year, this young designer has a lot of experience to
build on, having worked for Galliano and Lanvin. Her designs are romantic,
playful and strong —and have definite staying power for the years to
come.
William
Okpo
New York-based cool
kids (and sisters) Darlene and Lizzy Okpo have received high praise since their
line, William Okpo, debuted on the shelves of Open Ceremony in fall 2010. Keen
designs mix with hip vibes for a look you’d not be surprised to see on Solange
Knowles (who happens to be a close friend of the sisters).
Hernan
Lander
Though he hasn’t
presented a collection at New York Fashion Week since fall 2013, this season has
seen the return of Parsons graduate and former Donna Karan staffer Hernan
Lander. Having started his collection in 2008, this designer-to-watch creates
womenswear with body-conscious yet geometric and asymmetric shapes and
silhouettes.
TOME
Sydney-raised
designer duo Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin’s label TOME might already be three
years old, but extra-attentive eyes are now due to follow this line since being
named a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund womenswear finalist last summer.
Rebecca
Vallance
Another Australian
designer worth watching, Rebecca Vallance and her eponymous line take on
whimsical womenswear subtly with classic tailoring and unique textures. A former
fashion publicist, Vallance started her line in 2009 and has since shown her
designs at New York Fashion Week.
Rosie
Assoulin
Rosie Assoulin
first joined the scene with her debut collection for resort 2013. The
28-year-old designer has demonstrated an uncanny ability to produce top-notch
oversize, sculptural pieces with sophisticated dressed and suiting. She’s
currently nominated for the 2014 CFDA Fashion Award, along with Mary-Kate and
Ashley Olsen, Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang. Regardless of the outcome, this
will be a big step for the newcomer— and an even larger leap for her career.
Harbison
Based in Brooklyn,
Harbison was launched in 2013 by Charles Harbison. Though his potential has
become abundantly clear during his previous work with introducing some major
trends (like fun baseball caps and menswear-inspired trousers), the future holds
a lot of possibilities for this talented up-and-comer.
Noir
Noir
Combine
hyper-realistic imaging with both art and fashion and you might come up with the
love child that is Noir Noir. From T-shirts and sweatshirts to all-over printed
caps and jackets, this emerging brand-to-become-obsessed-with has been
distributing its simple yet spectacularly intriguing designs since 2012.
Houghton
Malibu-based
designer Katharine Polk may have only debuted her lined February 2012, but since
then the young label has garnered the attention of the young Hollywood elite,
including Lily Collins, Selena Gomez and Lucy Hale. This designer’s loot
incorporated midi skirts, boxy crop tops and sheer layering for spring
2014.
In addition to the
above mentioned lists, there are other ways to figure out which new fashion
designers should be watched. One way is to watch learn about competitions. In
2008 the Council of International Fashion Designers, Inc. created the annual
student and emerging designer competitions to provide support in continuing
education and a platform for the world’s young and talented creative artists.
The competitions are supported by the Miami Fashion Week Foundation, Inc., a §
501(c)(3) independent, not-for-profit organization formed as the entity to
generate funds and accept corporate and private contributions for charitable and
philanthropic initiatives. Click here to read more. Operating year-round, the
foundation hosts a variety of fundraising events to raise scholarship funds that
will benefit the emerging designers and students studying fashion design,
fashion photography, jewelry making, handbag design and graphic arts who are the
winners of the Miami Fashion Week® competitions. The competition finalists are
presented in an installation at Miami Fashion Week and the winners are announced
on-stage at the event. Among other exciting prizes including an engraved Tiffany
& Co. award, photographs and interviews with the international press, names
and photos on the “Winners Circle” page of the MIAFW web site, mentoring and
internships with industry professionals, they also receive a cash prize from the
Miami Fashion Week Foundation Scholarship Fund as part of their award. The Miami Fashion Week 2015
competitions will open soon.
Open Call: 2015
WGSN Global Fashion Awards The WGSN Global Fashion Awards has announced
their 2015 open call in an effort to find the new and the next. With over 20
categories, the awards honor both established and emerging designers and fashion
companies in the areas of design, innovation, buying retail and retail
design.
If you plan to be
in London this February you can find another selection of talented young
professionals at IFS in London. Launched in 2012, the International Fashion
Showcase engages with London’s position as an international fashion city
with a reputation for nurturing emerging talent. Organized by the British
Council and British Fashion Council, the
showcase takes place during London Fashion Week and will see
nearly 30 embassies and cultural institutions across the capital create fashion
exhibitions, which display their emerging fashion designers. The Showcase
offers the public together with the international press and buyers the chance to
explore work by some of the most innovative young fashion designers from
around the world. Each country is invited to present an original installation
showcasing a curated group of emerging fashion designers. As part of
Irish Design 2015, Ireland has
been invited to participate in the IFS in London February 2015,
presenting an exciting group of their emerging fashion design talent on this
international platform. They will be presenting in the areas of Womenswear,
Menswear, Accessories and Millinery. Successful applicants will showcase two or
three of their designs as part of a curated group of emerging Irish designers
presented at the IFS in London during fashion week, February
2015.
Since 2005, PREMIUM awards the PREMIUM YOUNG DESIGNERS AWARD to creative talents, promising designers and aspiring artists. The PREMIUM fashion committee crowns three most talented and creative designers amongst the exhibiting young designers of each season in the categories of womenswear, menswear, and accessories.
The PREMIUM YOUNG DESIGNERS AWARD is traditionally given out one day before the start of Berlin Fashion Week and for members of the press, industry insiders and fashion fans, the award ceremony already known as the official Fashion Week’s „kick off“. The award guarantees the winners a booth at PREMIUM for the coming season and integration in PREMIUM’s communication activities as well as the full support of the whole PREMIUM team.
The CFDA {FASHION
INCUBATOR} is a business development program designed to support the next
generation of fashion designers in New York City. The program provides a
creative professional environment with the mission of helping to grow and
sustain the businesses of the 10 participating brands over the course of the two
year program. By offering low-cost design studio space, business mentoring,
educational seminars, and networking opportunities, the program provides a way
for participants to reach their full potential and become an integral part of
the New York Fashion community. In 2010, the program partnered with New York
University’s Stern School of Business to create a Masters Workshop that pairs
their top MBA Students with the designers to work on business development
projects. Learn more about The CFDA at their website.
Below are some of the
names that have taken advantage of The CFDA {Fashion Incubator}
program:
2014- 2016
Designers
A Peace
Treaty
Dezso
Isa Tapia
Kaelen
Kara
Katie
Ermilio
Lucio
Castro
Nomia
Nonoo
Orley
2012-2014
Designers
Ari
Dein
Burkman
Bros
Daniel
Vosovic
Emanuela
Duca
Isaora
Jonathan
Simkhai
NUMBER:Lab
Reece
Hudson
Timo
Weiland
Whit
We hope that you
have found the selections above to be enjoyable. If you are familiar with any
of these designers, you are welcome to share your thoughts about their work in
the discussion area below. Should they be on the emerging designer lists? Let
us know which you think should be removed and which you think have already grown
being the status of “emerging”. Possibly they have moved from emerging to
“popular” and “super famous” already.
Thank you for taking the time to read our fashion blog post. We hope that you have found this news to be informative. If you have comments or questions, please add your thoughts in the discussion area below.
